The History of Ties

1800-1850s

The intense interest generated in the tying of a perfect cravat provoked a series of publications. The first one was published in 1818 and contained instructions and illustration on how to tie fourteen different cravats and for the first time the book used the word “tie” in association with neckwear.
English men's dress and fashion were influenced by such personalities as Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, Lord Lytton and Count D'Orsay, as well as prominent followers of fashion such as the yaoung and ambitious Benjamin Disraeli and Charles Dickens.
The lowering of the shirt collar stimulated the introduction of a variety of neckties, for not only were they made of colorful silks but the manner of tying them varied considerably. It was possible to indicate social position by the choice of collar and tie and the colour of a tie could also be used to indicate the wearer's political persuasion.

Racing has long been referred to as “the sport of the kings”. It was also the first sport to adopt “colours” in order to identify the jockeys by using the distinctive colours of liveries. The use of colours spread to distinguish other fashionable sporting groups.
The need to identify with a group also spread into universities (ex. Eton University) and services like the army and navy.

1860-1940s

It was during the second half of the nineteenth century that the necktie became an established item of men's dress. Neckwear, whether hand tied or ready made, was gradually evolving through four distinct styles: bow tie, scarf or neckerchief, Ascot and four in hand or sailor's knot. Certain styles were adopted for particular occasions; for instance the scarf fastened with the scarf ring and the long tie using the slip knot were worn for daywear and informal dress. The Ascot was worn for formal daywear or for hunting, when it was usually white. The bow tie could be worn for both day and evening dress, but only black or white were worn for evening dress; colours were reserved for daywear. Ties worn for daywear became very colorful in the late nineteenth century.
During the 1930s, however, colour and design became more restrained. The depression in the USA of the late 1920s and early 1930s may have affected the quality and range of styles.

1940- The Present Day

The Second World War (1939-1945) brought numerous restrictions. One of the effects on ties was the increased use of rayon, since silk had been commandeered for the production of parachutes both in Britain and in America. Wool continued to be used as it produced “wrinkle free” ties.

During the 1950s the times were changing. Parisian designs included some lively prints inspired by famous works of art, well-known landmarks, and even grapes, wine bottles and wine glasses. Ties from Italy were predominantly black and gold, complimenting their fashionable black and gold shantung suits. English neckwear often had a light background with dark stripes. An important innovation was the growing interest shown by couturiers in designing and producing items of menswear.
Pop art inspired the styles of the late 1960s but diring the early 1970s the exuberance gave way to more restrained and formal designs.
Ties became narrower with subdued decoration. In Britain, Europe and USA in the 1980s and 1990s a taste developed for increasingly unusual tie designs. These ranged from the deliberate kitsch to those designed and produced by artists.
After three hundred years of wearing neckties, the importance of neckwear and the consciousness of its impact and the observer has hardly changed.